www.valmraj.lv :: Koceni Civil Parish

According to tales and stories, many magicians and charmers have lived here. It was not so long ago when the famous healer Zilakalna Marta (Marta Racene) lived there. Not loved by the Soviet power, in 1992 she moved to Rauna, but people still used to call her Zilakalna Marta.
The origin of the name of the hill is connected with the root of the word "zil" - translated from Latvian - to tell fortune, or "sila" in Russian - power. "Zils" also means "blue", because there is a blue haze around the hill from the local marshes, but it may have had less influence on the name of the hill.
The Earth energy researcher Totis (Janis Neibergs) has found that Zilaiskalns is a very powerful sacred place. He believes that such energy sources are usually located on the crossing of at least two underground streams of fire, but Zilaiskalns is a place where four such underground streams are crossing. People have made 14 energy circles and one fire circle around the crossing point. The centre of this powerful place is the top of Zilaiskalns with the most powerful stream of energy. There is a sacred stone at the entrance ( 90 cm long, 60 cm wide). The stone has an artificially made cavity - 42 x 31 cm and 11 cm deep. Zilaiskalns has been the source of energy and inspiration for many Latvian literature workers: Auseklis, Rainis,Karlis Skalbe, Janis Akuraters, Marta Grimma, Skaidrite Kaldupe, Pavils Rozitis, Mara Zalite, Valdis Ruja.
More information: http://www.svetvietas.lv
Zilaiskalns (height 127 m) is a symbol, an archetype and the spiritual personification of Latvian nation which is used by Garlibs Merķelis in his work "Vanems Imanta" and Andrejs Pumpurs has mentioned Zilaiskalns as a burial place for Liiv leader Imanta.

The church is the architectural monument of state importance with outstanding art works: a pulpet with paintings (the middle of the 18th century), an oblate box (1755) and a cup (1849).
The famous Henry of Livonia (Neredzigais Indrikis) served there as a priest from 1208 to his death and Rubene Lutheran church is the place where Latvian Christianity began. This one of the reasons why the church is worth visiting. According to historical evidences, in 1208 Henry of Livonia started the first parish in the history the members of which were only Latvians. Although some historians think that it was not far from Mujani, most historians believe that the meeting place was exactly where Rubene church is now, built in 1739 integrating the altar part from the 14th century building. By the way, it has been said that in the Middle ages the roof of the church was covered with blue glazed clay tiles.
One more interesting fact is that in 2000 the restorers found a filled-up cript under the floor. Some stories say that there could be buried Henry of Livonia, but it`s impossible to prove it.
The legend says: "In the ancient times people wanted to build a church, but what was built during the daytime, was damaged during the night. Then the elders gave advice to build a live person into the wall. The builder went to the field and asked the workers: Who wants to be the key holder of the new church? A young boy, named Rubis agreed, and so, he was built into the church wall. Since that time the building process was not disturbed, and the church was named Rubene church".

It is located in Koceni parish, at the edge of the forest, 470 m to the South West from Vitoleni. It is a cultural monument of state importance. The size: 2.35 x 2.0 x 1.3 m. It is quartz porphyrite, reddish pale, pale from the surface because of weathering. The stone has been brought by glacier 25 -12 000 years ago.
According to the legends about the stone, a metal horse and other monuments around, Devil`s clock is an ancient worship stone. V.D. Balodis has written interesting stories about the stone in his book "Jumera valley and its famous places".

In the 13th century Mujani - Dukeri region belonged to the bishop of Riga. The place was mentioned for the first time at the end of the 15th century as Evald Patkul`s property. In 1494 Mujani was owned by Hans Ikskiua, in 1503 it was sold to Johan Patkul, but in 1522 Hans Rozen is mentioned as the owner of Mujani. Rozen family owned this place up to Swedish times. In 1622 Mujani were given to Axel Uxenshern, Gustav II Adolf`s state chancellor. After the Northern war (1727) Mujani passed into possession of the count Gustav Levenvold, but after 1740 into possession of the director general, baron Mengden. His daughter Eleonora, the wife of Braun, the Governor General, handed over the estate to fon Mek as a part of an exchange deal.
At the beginning of the 19th century the estate belonged to the widow S.K. fon Mek (born fon Mengden). In 1801 fon Mek mortgaged Mujani estate for 60 000 thalers to the count Georg Heinrich Ludvig (1768 - 1812) the owner of Kauguri estate with the condition that widow S.K. fon Meka could live there all her life. The count was married to Margaretta Elizabeth Dorothea fon Gersdofa (1775 - 1829). All their 5 children were baptized in Valmiera Lutheran church: Elizabeth Albertin (1795 -1797), Sophia Constance Caroline (1796 - 1878), Constance (1798 - ?) Alexandra (1802 -?) and Fridrich Moritz (1804 - 1887) . The patriarch of the family G.H.L. fon Mengden , the owner of Kauguri, Cempi, Mujani and Dukeri estates is buried in the family chapel in Valmiera old cemetery, on the banks of the Gauja. In 1832 the inheritance was divided into two parts and his sons became the owners of Kauguri and Mujani estates. Alexander, the elder son who spent most of the time in St.Petersburg inhereted Kauguri estate. Moritz, the younger son, in 1832 turned to Orthodoxy and married Zinaida Butrimova who was an Orthodox. He bought Mujani estate for 40 000 roubles. The marriage took place in St.Petersburg.
The Megdens spent most of the time in their property. Their children Georg (1836) and Vera (1840) were born there. Fridrich Moritz fon Mengden died in Mujani in 1887 and he is buried in Valmiera cemetery next to his father. His son Georg Fjodorovich served in emperer's cavalry regiment and married to Jevgenia Burceva from Novgorod. All Moritz`s grandchildren were born in St.Petersburg: Jevgenija (1859), Zinaida (1878), Georg (1861), Nikolajs (1866) and Dmitrij (1873).The count Georg Fjodorovich who belonged to the Orthodox church, finished his service as lieutenant general and died in his family estate in Mujani in 1902. Georg`s son Georg Georgevich was the last Mujani heir. He served in the same cavalry where his father. In 1890 in St.Petersburg he got married to Maria Sophia Frederiche Dagmara. During World War I (1917) Georg was arrested and there is no more information about him. The estate house had a tragic fate as well. During the Soviet regime (in the 80ies of the 20th century) the 19th century wooden building was damaged and now it`s possible to see only the granary, built in the same century in the style of classicism.

Koceni parish, Mujani. An archeological monument of state importance.
Mujani castle was Riga archbishop vassal`s castle. According to historical sources, it was built between 1473 and1503 as an estate and it was mentioned as a castle. In 1555 in the list of Livonian castles it was mentioned as a property inhereted by archibishop`s vassals Rozeni. In the spring of 1601 the castle was seized by Swedes, but in July 1601 it was recaptured by Poles. Later Swedes got the castle back and in 1633 they planned to fortify it. Possibly it was ruined during the Swedish war. In the 19th century there were only ruins, except for the White Tower.The last owner of the castle count Moritz Mengden ordered to cover the vault of the White Tower with cement concrete in the second half of the 19th century.
Next to Mujani castle ruins there was a former parish council building Baltakmeni. Today Baltakmeni is a guest house and Mujani community centre. Close by are Dzirnavu lake and Dzirnavu ruins, Mujani estate park and granary.

Beste Milestone is a monument of the 17th century road building. It has got its name from Beste pub where it is located now, but the name of the building is
"Abelites". The length of the stone is 2.4 m, it can be seen 1.5 m above the ground and the year 1686 and an inscription 14M are curved on it. This was the year when it was set up there indicating the distance to Riga in Swedish miles. Possibly there were such stones made by Swedes on post roads after each mile, though Beste milestone is the only known of such kind of stones.

Guku springs are 160 metres to the South of Guku house. The water from the springs gathers at the right bank of the Gauja and flows into the river as a brook.

It`s a granite rock, the perimetre - 14 m and the height - 2.7metres. This boulder is at the highway Valmiera - Straupe - Rīga, opposite Rubene church.

Sietiniezis rock is in a steep delve, surrounded by hillocks covered with forests. It is a rosy granite rock, brought by glacier thousands of years ago. Its perimetre - 12 metres, the height -1.7 - 2.2 metres.Sietiniezis stone is on the right bank of the Gauja 120 metres from Sietiniezis access road.

It is 500 metres to the South West of Straupnieki hause. The sand is not excavated there any more and the pit is recultivated now, and in the South West corner there is a big, sandstone detrition. The light grey rock forms a steep wall, the height of which is from 3 to 15 metres.

Rock ravine begins with the first spring, which is 120 metres to the North East from Sietiniezis parking place. Walking along the ravine you can notice countless small springs which make groups of springs with original vegetation.

Mezuli springs are between Mezuli house and the Gauja, 500 metres from Valmiera - Sietiniezis road. The complex is in the shape of funnel, in the lower part of it 5 springs flow out and bring water to Mezuli brook. Spring waters flow from cracks in light grey sandstone, where the cracks form star shapes.Spring water is clear and transparent, but the water in Mezuli brook is dark maroon.

Between the road Valmiera - ‘'Jumaras" and the point where Jumara falls into the Gauja, the Jumara river flows along the ravine with steep banks of devon sandstone, and the slopes covered by wood. A maroon sandstone detrition can be seen at the bridge accross the Jumara river . The length is 60 metres, the height reaches up to 6 metres. Cracks and recesses can be seen in the sandstone.

Koceni Municipality, Koceni Parish. Today: Koceni Elementary School.
Koceni municipality is a part of the ancient Valmiera region. In Polish times (up to 1582) it was a part of Cesis episcopacy. According to one of the versions, the name comes from a wooden building built in Polish times. From 1622 Kokmuiza together with Tornis (Tarnisa) and Charles estates belonged to the Swedish state chancellor, count Axel Uxenshern. When the estate reform began, the rich Uxhenshern family lost their property in Vidzeme. It was taken over by the state because the king Charles XI needed money to maintain and strengthen army. In 1681 the estate was rented to Reiters, a prosperous merchant from Riga. During the Northern war (1702) the inhabitants of Koceni also suffered from attacks: houses were burned, grain was taken away and local people were killed. In 1710, the plague attacked Vidzeme. Many peasants died. In 1728 Russian tsar Peter II presented Kokmuiza and Briezi estates to his court lady Saltikova, but from 1744 it was owned by general Johan Ludvig fon Lubrass. In 1763 Kokmuiza was sold in auction for 40 000 silver roubles to lieutenant general , Vidzeme vice-governor Sebastian Anhorn Hartviss. In 1782 it was inhereted by his son Heinrich Ernst Anhorn fon Hartviss (1756 - 1836). After death of Kokmuiza feudal lord his heirs put the property in auction. Johan Fridrich Schreder (1800 - 1882), the consul of Netherlands and the owner of Burtnieki estate, got this desired property for 154 000 silver roubles.
In 1882 after consul`s death the family decided that the elder son Theodor (1834 - ? ) will inherit Kokmuiza, but younger son Georg Vilhelm will inherit Burtnieki. J.F.fon Schreder is buried in family cemetery in Burtnieki next to his wife Elize Vilhelmine Sophia, born Pander (1811 - 1866). Schreder`s fate wasn`t favourable for him, he died in 1898 (according to other sources in 1903). The property was inhereted by a distant relative, his God daughter`s husband -baron Julij Fridrich Georg Elzen. When the new Latvian state was founded, the estate buildings were passed to Valmiera district board, later it was given to local government. The manor house was not used for several years. In 1936 rebuilding began after the project by an architect Cuibe. A six-year elementary school was opened in the building. The school was confirmed in 1937. In 1967, an additional building was built, and the school still works in this place.
In the 20ies and 30ies of the twentieth century baron Elzen owned the land in Koceni which was the location of a famous brewery. Brothers Schwartz who rented it, had to pay up to 40 000 lats a year and a box of a beer a day. The travellers were guided by a border-stone with the coat of arms of Valmiera standing on the border between Valmiera and Kokmuiza.
A park with ponds and estate manager`s house have survived after World War II. In 1980 the renovated building of the granary opened doors as a community centre, but in 2005 a sports centre was opened next to it.
Archeological monuments of state importance are Cimpeni castle mound, Dranki and Rugeni burial grounds, architectural monuments of local importance are Janeni cemetery, Kikuti church hill - a medieval burial ground, Polbrenci sacred spring Napucis - a place of pagan rituals.The spring is between Straupnieki and Dukuli, 200 metres to the North East of burned Polbrenci house, in the lower part of a steep slope where there are also some smaller springs.
It`s possible that Cimpeni castle mound was a fortified living place for the inhabitants of Imera (Jumara).The stories say that Kikuti church hill was the place of church built by Henry of Livonia, the author of Livonian chronicals, but he himself was buried in Janeni burial ground.

Visits to stables.Horse rides in the vicinities or in the manege (10 Ls/h), a ride in the cart (20 Ls/h).
Tel. 26405147, 29120102